Daily life in San Juan
A compact San Juan newcomer field guide
A starting list for groceries, restaurants, snorkeling and paddleboard gear, and hot-weather clothing, with dated personal notes.

At a glance
- Local grocery delivery
- PRoduce for food from Puerto Rico producers, subject to current delivery coverage.
- Specialty groceries
- Asian markets around Santurce and Condado. Inventory and store listings change.
- Restaurant shortlist
- Cocina al Fondo, Bartolo, Casita Miramar, Coyote, Café Caleta, Kémuri, and Mugi Pan.
- Snorkeling kit
- A mask that seals, a traditional dry-top snorkel with a purge valve, and compact fins.
- Paddleboard decision
- Rent first. Compare rigid-board glide with inflatable-board storage and transport.
- Sun kit
- Quick-drying clothes, a sun shirt, hat, sunglasses, and water-resistant sunscreen.
Set up two grocery paths
PRoduce is an online grocery and delivery service, not merely a physical produce shop. Use it for local products and delivery, then keep a conventional supermarket for household staples. Check the current delivery area and product availability at checkout.
Ben also uses Asian groceries around Santurce and Condado. Some stores keep vegetables in a rear refrigerated room, so ask staff when the produce is not visible. That detail is a personal observation from 2026, not a rule across stores. This guide omits the unverified name "88 Market" until a current Puerto Rico address can be confirmed.
Keep a dated restaurant shortlist
The list below records Ben's current preferences rather than ranking San Juan restaurants. Check the linked first-party or current listing before traveling because hours, reservations, addresses, and menus change. For the dated café work-from list, see Cafés to work from in San Juan.
Ben also returns to Kémuri and Mugi Pan for Japanese cooking and baking in San Juan. Each is run by a Japanese and Puerto Rican couple: Hiroyuki Shibata and Giannina Álvarez at Kémuri, and Hiroto Abiru and Amanda Álvarez at Mugi Pan. The two Puerto Rican partners share a surname; no source reviewed for this guide says they are related or share ownership.
Kémuri is yōshoku (Japanese home cooking), not a sushi or ramen restaurant. It is at 624 Calle Ernesto Cerra, San Juan 00907, in Gandul / Santurce. Its official site, checked August 31, 2026, listed Monday noon to 8:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday noon to 9:30 p.m., Sunday 2:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., and a Tuesday through Thursday close. Mugi Pan bakes in Bayamón and keeps a limited public walk-up at the Módulo de Mejoramiento Comunitario, 1110 esquina Calle Monseñor Torres / Calle Arzuaga, Río Piedras. Listings disagree on which days it is open. Treat a Saturday walk-up as common, and confirm the day's hours on Instagram before going.
| Place | Area and use | Current page |
|---|---|---|
| Cocina al Fondo | Santurce dinner built around seasonal Puerto Rican cooking. | Restaurant site |
| Bartolo | Miramar restaurant for contemporary Puerto Rican and Creole dishes. | Restaurant site |
| Casita Miramar | Miramar restaurant with a broad Puerto Rican menu. | Restaurant site |
| Coyote | Santurce tacos and mezcal. | Current listing |
| Café Caleta | Old San Juan café, wine, and small plates. | Current listing |
| Kémuri | Santurce Japanese home cooking: katsu curry, karaage, and gyoza. | Restaurant site |
| Mugi Pan | Río Piedras Japanese bakery walk-up: melon pan, curry pan, and fruit sandwiches. |
Buy snorkeling gear that fits
A snorkeling mask covers the eyes and nose; swim goggles do not. Test the seal before choosing a brand. Place the mask against a clean face without the strap, inhale gently through the nose, and confirm that it stays in place without painful pressure.
Ben uses Cressi equipment and prefers a traditional mask, a dry-top snorkel, and compact fins. A dry-top valve reduces water entry but does not make a snorkel waterproof. Practice clearing it in shallow, controlled water before relying on it in open water.
- Choose tempered lenses and a silicone skirt that seals without overtightening the strap.
- Choose fins by foot-pocket fit and intended distance. Compact fins travel more easily, while longer blades change effort and control.
- Rinse gear with fresh water, dry it out of direct sun, and inspect the strap, skirt, mouthpiece, and valves before the next use.
Choose a paddleboard around storage and distance
Ben uses a Surftech Chameleon rigid board and a Hybrid Carbon 88 paddle for longer flat-water outings. That pairing reflects his preference, not a universal recommendation.
Rent both rigid and inflatable boards before buying. A rigid touring shape can improve glide and on-water feel but needs storage, a vehicle solution, and protection from impact. An inflatable board packs down and can fit a smaller home or car, but inflation, drying, stiffness, and wind behavior remain part of the routine.
Dress for sun as well as heat
Ben prefers Vuori tanks and shorts for casual daily use. That is a clothing preference, not a claim that exposed skin is the right choice for long water sessions.
For extended beach or water time, a UPF shirt or rash guard, a brimmed hat, and sunglasses cover more skin. The FDA advises broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen and reapplication according to the label after swimming, sweating, or towel drying. No brand in this guide has paid for placement.
First-person field note
Common questions
- Is PRoduce a physical grocery store?
- Treat PRoduce as an online grocery and delivery service. Check current delivery coverage and inventory, then pair it with a nearby full-service supermarket for household staples.
- Where can I buy Asian groceries in San Juan?
- Small Asian markets operate around Santurce and Condado, but names, addresses, and inventory change. Search current maps near your block and ask staff about refrigerated produce. This guide does not publish the unverified "88 Market" name as a current listing.
- Is a rigid paddleboard better than an inflatable board?
- Neither is always better. A rigid board can favor glide and feel, while an inflatable board favors storage and transport. Rent both in the conditions you expect to paddle before choosing.
- Do I need a life jacket on a stand-up paddleboard?
- The U.S. Coast Guard says yes when the board is used beyond the narrow limits of a swimming, surfing, or bathing area. Use a Coast Guard-approved jacket that fits, carry the required sound signal, and check Puerto Rico rules and local controls.
- Are Kémuri and Mugi Pan the same business?
- No. They are two separate San Juan businesses, each run by a Japanese and Puerto Rican couple. Kémuri is Hiroyuki Shibata and Giannina Álvarez. Mugi Pan is Hiroto Abiru and Amanda Álvarez. Both Puerto Rican partners are surnamed Álvarez; no source reviewed for this guide says they are related.
- Are these restaurant and gear recommendations sponsored?
- No. They are dated personal preferences. There is no paid placement or stated referral relationship. Availability, pricing, and quality can change after the review date.
Sources and verification
Rules, prices, locations, and provider coverage can change. These links are the primary or first-party pages checked for this guide.
- PRoduce — Current online grocery categories and Puerto Rico producer-delivery service.
- Cocina al Fondo — Restaurant address, contact, and current service information.
- Bartolo Miramar — Restaurant address, contact, and current service information.
- Casita Miramar — Restaurant's current menu and contact page.
- Coyote — Current restaurant listing and menu checked for tacos and mezcal.
- Café Caleta — Current San Juan restaurant listing, address, and service description.
- Kémuri — Restaurant address, hours, and service information checked August 31, 2026.
- Kémuri Instagram — Current service updates for the Santurce restaurant.
- El Nuevo Día on Kémuri — María C. Moreno Villarreal, February 3, 2023. Names Giannina Álvarez and Hiroyuki Shibata.
- Mugi Pan Instagram — Current walk-up days and bakery updates. No first-party website was found.
- MAFIA Mugi Pan PR listing — Directory listing for the Río Piedras walk-up. Hours conflict with other listings.
- El Nuevo Día on Mugi Pan — January 17, 2022. Names Amanda Álvarez and Hiroto Abiru and the 2021 bakery start.
- Alicia Kennedy interview with Mugi Pan — November 4, 2024. Fukuoka-area restaurant work and the 2020 return to Puerto Rico.
- Guayabas Mugi Pan bio — Vendor bio describing a Japanese and Puerto Rican baker couple.
- Eater Puerto Rico bakeries — March 27, 2024 independent bakery coverage.
- Cressi Marea and Alpha Ultra Dry set — Manufacturer description of a traditional mask, dry-top snorkel, purge valve, and fit materials.
- Surftech Chameleon — Manufacturer dimensions and rigid-board design description.
- Surftech Hybrid Carbon 88 paddle — Manufacturer construction, blade-area, and adjustment specifications.
- U.S. Coast Guard SUP and life-jacket FAQ — Federal vessel, life-jacket, and sound-signal rules checked August 2026.
- CDC sun-safety guidance — Current guidance on shade, clothing, hats, sunglasses, and UV exposure.
- FDA sunscreen guidance — Broad-spectrum, water-resistance, and reapplication labeling guidance.


